Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

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aepowell3

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby aepowell3 » Wed 10 Sep, 2014 00:09

What is the correct procedure for getting a replacement unit. I bought mine in July and it worked fine untill I added the intex sand filter. Now it shows that its working with no code but I have boosted and boosted and it isnt adding any clorine. My salt level is 2700. Do you have to send your old unit back or just how does it work?
Thanks
Aepowell


stumped

Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby stumped » Wed 15 Jun, 2016 12:48

Mr Know It ALL wrote:If you need a sales invoice for warranty e mail the company you bought it from and dont forget upc on out side of box.
As for code 91 mine was a factory defect.only one plate was getting voltage.I have one comming from intek. In the mean time i used a 6mm wrench and turned the plugin pin the one that was not sending voltage one quater turn and i got a ohms reading. Reinstalled titanium electrode and it works like it was never defected.Now when i have to clean the plates ill have a spare to swap out.No downtime.Remember low salt is not always what is seems . Dont over salt your pool. Only the two outside plates should have an ohms reading to there plug in pins.


you're a Guinness, been trying everything i could find and this simple lil thing if tightening up the plug prongs worked perfect. wish i would have found your post first weeks ago... :):):)
Rachelw79

Re: Intex titanium electrode

Postby Rachelw79 » Fri 29 Jul, 2016 11:20

I know this is off topic from what y'all were discussing but I have been going in circles trying to find a replacement titatanium electrode for my salt water system and conveniently intex is the only one that sells them well them and Walmart and they r both out of stock. Does anyone know of somewhere else I might be able to purchase this part. Please help.
jc083

Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jc083 » Sun 31 Jul, 2016 14:06

tried to connector swap and made smoke not a good sign. looks like I'm buying a new unit
brado

Re: 8110 fix

Postby brado » Tue 30 Aug, 2016 16:53

edjones72 wrote:To Kenwwod: imagine the screw contacts were numbered 1-4 starting at the bottom, You would move wire 4 to 3 and move wire 1 to 2. You will end up with two wires attached to contact 2 and 3. This bypasses the circuit board and allows the DC current to flow straight to the cell ALL THE TIME WHEN THE UNIT IS PLUGGED IN SO don't leave it on too long without waterflow. The unit will still come on and the LED will still lite up but there is no reason to turn the switch on. From my testing, the transformer is energized all the time when the unit is plugged in just out of the box so this is not a big change. You can check the cell to see it working by plugging it in and waiting 30-60 seconds then turn the filter pump on. You should see a lot of bubbles coming out of the return line into the pool briefly. You can also take the left side hose off while holding the 8110 up on end. With pool water over the cell, plug the unit in. You should see the bubbling and white chlorine being produced at the end of the cell and smell the chlorine. The other slight concern I had was the unit cannot auto clean the cell when wired this way. I found the plug on the cell can fit on both ways so I reverse it occasionally. I have not tried to figure out if one polarity produces more chlorine in comparison to the other. To understand the concept behind the 8110, you can make chlorine with a 9V battery, 2 old spoons, 2 pieces of wire, a drinking glass, and some salt water. It's pretty cool! Let me know if you have any more questions. Make sure it's unplugged before rewiring. It's DC but it can still hurt you.


This didn't look correct to me when looking at the wiring. Connecting 1 to 2 would be shorting out the unit, on my unit 1 and 2 as described comes from the same source (power) if you follow the wires thus connecting positive to negative. What you need to look at is where the wires go, 2 wires are power, the other 2 wires go to the cell. What I did is connect the 2 wires that come from the power source directly to the cell. On my unit if numbering the screw contacts from 1 to 4 starting at the bottom I removed the wire connected at #1 (Red wire to power source) and moved it to #4 (Black wire to Cell) and removed the wire connected at #2 (Black to power source) and moved it to #3 (White wire to Cell). This has been working great for me so far, will have to rotate cell manually to reverse polarity and be on top of cleaning because there is no more automation of stopping the unit if corroded. The switch on the unit now as no effect on making chlorine, if you have the unit plugged into power it's going to be making chlorine so make sure you put a manual timer on it to coincide with water running through it from your pump. Even though the cell is getting power without the switch on I have the switch turned on for the length of time running because it appears the fan still runs to cool unit if the switch is turned on even though the unit has the code 91 (low salt) warning.
cactusjack
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Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby cactusjack » Sun 05 Feb, 2017 22:24

Really need help with my 8231 model.
My PCB is fried and I want to bypass eveything so I can just plug in the power cord and it will all run.
Need to know what wires go where!
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Modjunkie

Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Modjunkie » Thu 25 May, 2017 16:35

Regarding the 8110 not working. I went trough the vinegar procedure and still got the 91 fault code. I removed the copper electrode, soaked it separately and scrubbed it with a scotch bright pad. So far so good!
Sanchezfam

Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Sanchezfam » Tue 13 Jun, 2017 09:15

"
This didn't look correct to me when looking at the wiring. Connecting 1 to 2 would be shorting out the unit, on my unit 1 and 2 as described comes from the same source (power) if you follow the wires thus connecting positive to negative. What you need to look at is where the wires go, 2 wires are power, the other 2 wires go to the cell. What I did is connect the 2 wires that come from the power source directly to the cell. On my unit if numbering the screw contacts from 1 to 4 starting at the bottom I removed the wire connected at #1 (Red wire to power source) and moved it to #4 (Black wire to Cell) and removed the wire connected at #2 (Black to power source) and moved it to #3 (White wire to Cell). This has been working great for me so far, will have to rotate cell manually to reverse polarity and be on top of cleaning because there is no more automation of stopping the unit if corroded. The switch on the unit now as no effect on making chlorine, if you have the unit plugged into power it's going to be making chlorine so make sure you put a manual timer on it to coincide with water running through it from your pump. Even though the cell is getting power without the switch on I have the switch turned on for the length of time running because it appears the fan still runs to cool unit if the switch is turned on even though the unit has the code 91 (low salt) warning.


I did this, but unit only runs when switch is turned on and now constant beeping for warning. Why is is still reliant on switch being on? My unit is 20110 & 15110
jpinterp
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Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jpinterp » Sat 01 Aug, 2020 18:41

Just got one of these things with a used pool and I'm at least the 3rd owner from what I can tell. Of course the previous owner assured me everything was working properly but as usual that was not the case. When I powered the unit on I got the 91 low salt error even though the local store tested the salt at 3200ppm.

Did what so many people did and connected the chlorine cell directly to the rectifier output and presto! - chlorine bubbles appear on the cell. While debugging I found that the transformer is only producing 8vdc after rectification but thought I'd try the direction connection anyways.

I don't want to bother plugging and unplugging every time so I have wired the on/off switch and the flow sensor in series with the chlorine cell. The flow sensor provides a little insurance in case the pump flow drops.
TheCptn
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Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby TheCptn » Mon 07 Sep, 2020 00:15

Just An FIY the transformer failed on one of my 8110 and to fix it I bought a variable 20A DC power supply for $50 and a Variable DC-DC Converter for $10 and it worked like a charm. Keep in mind its no longer water proof.

Here are the links below

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071DQPRR5
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074J4DLWQ
TheCptn
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Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby TheCptn » Mon 07 Sep, 2020 00:22

jpinterp wrote:... I don't want to bother plugging and unplugging every time so I have wired the on/off switch and the flow sensor in series with the chlorine cell. The flow sensor provides a little insurance in case the pump flow drops.


Wiring the flow sensor in series isn't a good idea, The sensor is only a low current magnetic switch, it can't handle the current of the generator, you'll most likely burn it out, your better off activating the sensor with a relay which in turn will turn on the salt cell, better yet just get a Power supply for $50 as I mentioned in my previous post.
peternam
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Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby peternam » Thu 08 Jul, 2021 19:27

Pool Hacker wrote:If you have an INTEX 8110 Chlorine Generator that continuously gives you salt level codes that prevents you from continuing to chlorinate (when you have verified that the salt ppm is OK) you may be interested in a "fix." It requires a little technical aptitude, but it works great. I'll never go back to chlorine tabs or granular. I'll post the fix based upon the positive responses.


curious to know
Soule72
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Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Soule72 » Wed 25 May, 2022 15:40

I have the same problem. My pump is model number eco20110-2
What does the transformer look like and where is it. My pump works but when the chlorinate is on the whole pump shuts off and I get the service light.

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