Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

SWGs, salt water chlorine generators, chlorinators,
ozone generators, UV systems, . . .
Intex Hacker

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Intex Hacker » Tue 04 Aug, 2009 17:26

The salinity sensor determines salinity based on resistance. It is basically an ohmmeter. The sensor is calibrated to show the salinity that corresponds to the measured resistance. If you cut the wires going to the salinity sensor and wire in the correct resistance, the meter should show a good salt level.

I do not know what resistance levels correspond to what salinity levels. You could get a bunch of resistors and try them until you found one that works.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062306
I would try the 2.2 k ohm resistor first and go from there.

Or, you could try a Potentiometer, which is a variable resister. http://www.radioshack.com/family/index. ... Id=2032275

For the power supply
http://www.ehow.com/how_5008846_build-v ... upply.html
You should probably use a transformer rated up to 8 amps at 24 volts DC.

I am not an electrician. I have not done this, and I do not know if it will work. I am not 100% sure about this. I am not recommending that anyone do this. This is probably something that no one should try.

If you try this, it will void your warranty. If you don't know what you are doing, you could destroy your entire unit and possibly get seriously injured or even killed.

P.S: If you do try this and survive, could you please post the results?


Intex Hacker

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Intex Hacker » Tue 04 Aug, 2009 17:51

To help determine the correct resistance, you could use an ohmmeter to test a sample of your pool water with the leads spaced the same distance as the sensor studs of the salinity sensor. The reading in ohms should be approximately correct. Try that resistor first.
new2me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby new2me » Wed 12 Aug, 2009 21:06

This unit does not have a separate salinity sensor. It has a flow sensor, which is easy to check, and bypass if needed. I think it measures the actual resistance of all of the components in the system- the terminal connections, wire, cell plates, and water, using a Programmable Precision Reference TL431A(U1). It compares that through R50 and VR3 to the upper and lower resistance limits set on the board by R41/VR2 and R42/VR1 using an LM339N(U3). The result is a digital signal to the microcontroller(U4) on pins 11 and 12. As scale builds on the cell plates, the resistance goes up, adjusting the VR trim pots can widen the range of allowable scale build up. Too much salt decreases resistance and increases current flow, F1 and F2 are 10A-250V fuses that limit current to protect the transformer. Connecting the rectifier output directly to the cell bypasses the fuses and could destroy the transformer.
megaglow_z
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Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby megaglow_z » Thu 20 Aug, 2009 22:54

My generator just died completely.
The transformer in not outputting at all.
What/where can i get a transformer, and what are the exact specs i need?
James Haws
jandafields

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jandafields » Fri 28 Aug, 2009 21:46

Because of the timer inaccuracy starting each day, and because I might want to use this for two shorter periods each day instead of one long period, or whatever various ways you can think of, I want to control the unit from an external timer. I could precisely have my pump come on exactly 30 minutes before and stay on 30 minutes after if I could precisely control the 8110.

I am knowledgeable enough to build automation circuits using computers, relays, etc. The part I have a question about is this:

How can I turn the unit "on" without using the hack of bypassing the circuit board? I still want the functionality of the salt/flow sensor, salt-high, salt-low (as long as they are functioning properly of course... if they ever stop, I would disable them), fuses and over-current protection, the "green chlorine light", and most importantly I want the automatic cleaning/reverse functionality as well.

Are there 2 points on the board that I can short or otherwise manipulate to make the unit behave as though its own timer has started without actually using its own timer? Remember that I want it to still automatically reverse the polarity every 20 hours as it normally does, but without using its own daily timer. I will leave the unit hooked to main power all the time. If there isn't a way to make it auto-reverse, perhaps there are points on the board that can be shorted or manipulated to reverse the polarity without physically turning the cable around. I could use these points on the board with another relay to control the reverse polarity as well with my computer and relays. Worst case scenario, I could use relays to physically reverse the connections myself on a schedule, but since this functionality is built in, it would be nice to use that instead.

If some people are interested in this, I will keep updates posted.
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Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby megaglow_z » Mon 31 Aug, 2009 21:26

megaglow_z wrote:My generator just died completely.
The transformer in not outputting at all.
What/where can i get a transformer, and what are the exact specs i need?


Anyone?!
new2me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby new2me » Thu 03 Sep, 2009 16:32

jandafields
I've modified one of these to be controlled by an Arduinohttp://www.arduino.cc/, bypassing the salinity(conductance) tests and timer, but utilizing the relays and fuses on the board. I've tried a couple of different control sets, to mimic what other SWG makers use. One was a percentage setting - where it operates for a set percentage(10,20,30,etc..) of a set time period(15 minutes, 30 miutes,etc..) and reverses after another set time period(2 hours, 4 hours,etc..) Another delayed for a set time, then ran for a set time, reversing at a set time. I have a pump timer that I like, and seems pretty reliable, so I use that to power on the SWG with the pump. I like the delay after starting, it gives the water a chance to mix, and me to get a sample, before the chlorine production starts. :D
I originally wanted to unsolder the Sonix mcu, and put a socket in its place, so that I could use the Arduino to program a chip and stick it in the socket, but I ran into a lack of ability. I also needed it done quickly, so I just used the parts of the board that I could decipher, and isolated the rest by cutting/removing components/traces. If you don't want to use an Arduino, you can just control the relays with inexpensive timers. I found the Arduino fun to play with. 8)
Here is what I found for the relay control: K1 connects the rectifier output(24 VDC) to the NC terminals of relays K2 & K3, and the 5VDC control power too. The relays are switched by grounding them after K1 has supplied them with power. When K2 & K3 are NC, the cell is idle(has no power), Leaving K2 NC and switching K3 puts positive power to the cell, switching K2 and leaving K3 NC puts reverse power to the cell. The fuses are built in between the relay outputs and the terminal strip where the rectifier and cell connect.

The Green LED will come on with the cell. I wanted to use the two buttons and two 7 segment LEDs for the programming UI(User Interface), but I've found that it isn't necessary to alter the settings much, and when I do, I just plug my laptop into the Arduino via USB cord sticking out of the bottom. The unit looks just like a "stock" one, except when its running, only the green LED is on, the red 7 segment counter LEDs are not on and pushing the buttons doesn't do anything. There are also no error alarms, and I won't know if the fuses are blown until after the fact, :( When I get more time/motivation I would like to incorporate a power monitor that will alarm (bleep/flash LEDs) when set-points are reached (I don't know what the set-points even are!)
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Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Bronco_Guy » Thu 11 Mar, 2010 10:10

Hi all,

Checking back to see if any of you are having success with your 8110. I notice my local Wal-Mart is carrying this product again, so I'm wondering if they have become reliable. One nice thing, Wal-Mart will usually respond to a return if you keep all your paperwork and are nice to them.

If you are as disappointed in this product as I was, I'd recommend dumping it altogether, and going with the Chlorease passive system. It hangs on the side of the pool and mine runs all the time. It has worked flawlessly for two seasons, looking forward to a third.

Two notes: if your water is hard like mine, you will need to clean the cell in a Muriatic acid solution as needed. It's cheap and simple, no big deal.

Second, after some research, I learned that the transformer for the Chlorease unit might be prone to thermal failure, so I rigged up a large plastic storage-type bin with an electric fan mounted in the bottom for cooling, much like you would cool a computer case. I mounted the transformer inside and can pop off the lid if I need to unplug anything. So far, so good.

I hate that the 8110 is not a better product, but I'm happy with the Chlorease unit as an alternative. If you have a soft-sided pool, I don't think the Chlorease will work, though. But you can research that.

Happy swimming, and God Bless!
New2Me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2Me » Sat 27 Mar, 2010 12:51

I've been using an Intex that I modified by replacing the Sonix microcontroller on the main board with an Arduino microcontroller project board. The Arduino (http://www.arduino.cc/) is an open source unit, the software is free, the board is ~$35. Not too difficult a swap (I'm not an electrician, or a programmer.) The program is simple to work with, I just tried to fix the things that I didn't like about the original, mainly that it lost its setting when the power was removed, and that the internal clock wasn't good. Now it is powered On by the pump timer/clock and runs its set program each time, after waiting for a delay that I put in. As I said before, it doesn't measure salinity, it just works.
Here's the program that wrote - http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1269366253
maybe it will be useful to someone. or at least provide a chuckle!
New2Me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2Me » Wed 31 Mar, 2010 10:21

I can try to post pics of the circuit board, if anybody is interested. I have identified most of the components on it, but maybe someone else can figure out how they are supposed to work, or give tips on their functions. Let me know!
jandafields
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Intex 8110 SWG

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jandafields » Thu 22 Apr, 2010 11:25

New2Me, thank you for the information. Actually, back in August, I ended up doing almost the same thing that you did in your post. I tore the unit apart, identified the relays and fuses, etc.

One thing to note: There is no need to cut any traces or wires. The unit will still be controlled by what ever you use to control it, AND it is still in original working order as well. You just don't set any schedule on it.

Anyway, instead of the Arduino, I used a single-board-computer with a homemade serial port controller. This gives me much more flexibility. I have it connected to a web-based interface, so I just log into the controller from anywhere, see if it is running, manually turn it on/off, set unlimited number of schedules. The pump and swg have their own schedules so I can have the pump run as much as I want without affecting the amount that the swg runs. It has a fail safety... if the flow detector in the swg does not detect flow, the pump and swg are turned off automatically. (Normally this is due to a clogged filter from bugs and dirt making the flow too slow that the detector trips). Pollen and bugs this year are HORRIBLE!

I'm working on interfacing a temperature sensor so the pump will automatically run when it gets below freezing outside during the winter.
New2me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2me » Sun 25 Apr, 2010 11:54

Wow Jandafields, that sounds like a great project! I am very happy to share info and am interested in how you interface to the Intex, are you talking to it serially? It would be nice to not have to re-wire the dang thing! I have made a list for myself of the components I've identified on the board, and what it is that I think they do, which is fairly easy for the relays, but I am not sure about the salinity test circuitry. I would be happy to share it. Does yours still test/alarm salinity? What is your source for the single board computer, was one with a serial port not available?
Here is a link to a project that got me started with the Arduino, Piku has used temperature and pressure sensors in his, maybe the info will be useful to you, TFP is a great site too!
http://www.troublefreepool.com/diy-automated-controls-advice-solicited-t5708.html

I have seen several reports now that Intex has a new model available that has a copper ion generator on it too, but it does not have the chlorine production capacity of the 8110, so I am planning on acquiring a few more for spares before they disappear.
God Luck and Best wishes!
jandafields
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Intex 8110 SWG

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jandafields » Sun 25 Apr, 2010 13:46

There are several single-board-board computers avaialble, and most of them have serial and/or gpio ports. There is the soekris boards, the pc engines wrap/alix boards. They run linux. Some are windows capable. And there are tons others... you could even use a super old free desktop you might have laying around.

I don't talk serial directly to the intex, as it has no serial interface... but i have serial -> output pins that control the relays on the intex.

Basically, I have one wire for the one relay on the intex, another wire for the opposite relay on the intex (this way I can reverse back and forth to protect the intex plates, just like the onboard does.)

I have one wire for the flow detector.

Thanks for that other link. I will look into the pressure guage, that looks interesting.

I have one common wire.

As for salt-detector, I don't think that is necessary. You water is not going to magically get out of balance for salt. If salt does get too low, it simply won't work... but it would take a lot of rain overflow to get that bad. And you would figure this out and add more salt.

If there is too much salt, it will blow the intex fuse. Again, the only way this can happen is if you add way too much salt. No one is going to do that unless they don't understand what they are doing.

As for the actual interface, I used php and exec calls to do things like writing to the serial port to turn outputs on/off.

I use cron in the backend to do the scheduling, and other homemade scripts to do various checks. For example, to query what inputs are on, query the flow control input, etc.
jandafields
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Posts: 4
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My Pool: Intex 24' x 52"
Intex 8110 SWG

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jandafields » Sun 25 Apr, 2010 13:48

There are several single-board-board computers avaialble, and most of them have serial and/or gpio ports. There is the soekris boards, the pc engines wrap/alix boards. They run linux. Some are windows capable. And there are tons others... you could even use a super old free desktop you might have laying around.

I don't talk serial directly to the intex, as it has no serial interface... but i have serial -> output pins that control the relays on the intex.

Basically, I have one wire for the one relay on the intex, another wire for the opposite relay on the intex (this way I can reverse back and forth to protect the intex plates, just like the onboard does.)

I have one wire for the flow detector.

Thanks for that other link. I will look into the pressure guage, that looks interesting.

I have one common wire.

As for salt-detector, I don't think that is necessary. You water is not going to magically get out of balance for salt. If salt does get too low, it simply won't work... but it would take a lot of rain overflow to get that bad. And you would figure this out and add more salt.

If there is too much salt, it will blow the intex fuse. Again, the only way this can happen is if you add way too much salt. No one is going to do that unless they don't understand what they are doing.

As for the actual interface, I used php and exec calls to do things like writing to the serial port to turn outputs on/off.

I use cron in the backend to do the scheduling, and other homemade scripts to do various checks. For example, to query what inputs are on, query the flow control input, etc.
New2Me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2Me » Wed 28 Apr, 2010 15:51

I revised the program that I'm running on the Arduino so that it will self-clean every x runs. Before it would reverse 1/2 way through each run. Now, with it set to run 4 hours/day, and self clean every 5 cycles it will be 20 hours before it reverses polarity to self clean, like they designed it, to prolong cell life.

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