Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

SWGs, salt water chlorine generators, chlorinators,
ozone generators, UV systems, . . .
jandafields
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Posts: 4
Joined: Mon 31 Aug, 2009 15:28
My Pool: Intex 24' x 52"
Intex 8110 SWG

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jandafields » Thu 22 Apr, 2010 11:25

New2Me, thank you for the information. Actually, back in August, I ended up doing almost the same thing that you did in your post. I tore the unit apart, identified the relays and fuses, etc.

One thing to note: There is no need to cut any traces or wires. The unit will still be controlled by what ever you use to control it, AND it is still in original working order as well. You just don't set any schedule on it.

Anyway, instead of the Arduino, I used a single-board-computer with a homemade serial port controller. This gives me much more flexibility. I have it connected to a web-based interface, so I just log into the controller from anywhere, see if it is running, manually turn it on/off, set unlimited number of schedules. The pump and swg have their own schedules so I can have the pump run as much as I want without affecting the amount that the swg runs. It has a fail safety... if the flow detector in the swg does not detect flow, the pump and swg are turned off automatically. (Normally this is due to a clogged filter from bugs and dirt making the flow too slow that the detector trips). Pollen and bugs this year are HORRIBLE!

I'm working on interfacing a temperature sensor so the pump will automatically run when it gets below freezing outside during the winter.


New2me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2me » Sun 25 Apr, 2010 11:54

Wow Jandafields, that sounds like a great project! I am very happy to share info and am interested in how you interface to the Intex, are you talking to it serially? It would be nice to not have to re-wire the dang thing! I have made a list for myself of the components I've identified on the board, and what it is that I think they do, which is fairly easy for the relays, but I am not sure about the salinity test circuitry. I would be happy to share it. Does yours still test/alarm salinity? What is your source for the single board computer, was one with a serial port not available?
Here is a link to a project that got me started with the Arduino, Piku has used temperature and pressure sensors in his, maybe the info will be useful to you, TFP is a great site too!
http://www.troublefreepool.com/diy-automated-controls-advice-solicited-t5708.html

I have seen several reports now that Intex has a new model available that has a copper ion generator on it too, but it does not have the chlorine production capacity of the 8110, so I am planning on acquiring a few more for spares before they disappear.
God Luck and Best wishes!
jandafields
I'm new here
I'm new here
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon 31 Aug, 2009 15:28
My Pool: Intex 24' x 52"
Intex 8110 SWG

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jandafields » Sun 25 Apr, 2010 13:46

There are several single-board-board computers avaialble, and most of them have serial and/or gpio ports. There is the soekris boards, the pc engines wrap/alix boards. They run linux. Some are windows capable. And there are tons others... you could even use a super old free desktop you might have laying around.

I don't talk serial directly to the intex, as it has no serial interface... but i have serial -> output pins that control the relays on the intex.

Basically, I have one wire for the one relay on the intex, another wire for the opposite relay on the intex (this way I can reverse back and forth to protect the intex plates, just like the onboard does.)

I have one wire for the flow detector.

Thanks for that other link. I will look into the pressure guage, that looks interesting.

I have one common wire.

As for salt-detector, I don't think that is necessary. You water is not going to magically get out of balance for salt. If salt does get too low, it simply won't work... but it would take a lot of rain overflow to get that bad. And you would figure this out and add more salt.

If there is too much salt, it will blow the intex fuse. Again, the only way this can happen is if you add way too much salt. No one is going to do that unless they don't understand what they are doing.

As for the actual interface, I used php and exec calls to do things like writing to the serial port to turn outputs on/off.

I use cron in the backend to do the scheduling, and other homemade scripts to do various checks. For example, to query what inputs are on, query the flow control input, etc.
jandafields
I'm new here
I'm new here
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon 31 Aug, 2009 15:28
My Pool: Intex 24' x 52"
Intex 8110 SWG

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jandafields » Sun 25 Apr, 2010 13:48

There are several single-board-board computers avaialble, and most of them have serial and/or gpio ports. There is the soekris boards, the pc engines wrap/alix boards. They run linux. Some are windows capable. And there are tons others... you could even use a super old free desktop you might have laying around.

I don't talk serial directly to the intex, as it has no serial interface... but i have serial -> output pins that control the relays on the intex.

Basically, I have one wire for the one relay on the intex, another wire for the opposite relay on the intex (this way I can reverse back and forth to protect the intex plates, just like the onboard does.)

I have one wire for the flow detector.

Thanks for that other link. I will look into the pressure guage, that looks interesting.

I have one common wire.

As for salt-detector, I don't think that is necessary. You water is not going to magically get out of balance for salt. If salt does get too low, it simply won't work... but it would take a lot of rain overflow to get that bad. And you would figure this out and add more salt.

If there is too much salt, it will blow the intex fuse. Again, the only way this can happen is if you add way too much salt. No one is going to do that unless they don't understand what they are doing.

As for the actual interface, I used php and exec calls to do things like writing to the serial port to turn outputs on/off.

I use cron in the backend to do the scheduling, and other homemade scripts to do various checks. For example, to query what inputs are on, query the flow control input, etc.
New2Me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2Me » Wed 28 Apr, 2010 15:51

I revised the program that I'm running on the Arduino so that it will self-clean every x runs. Before it would reverse 1/2 way through each run. Now, with it set to run 4 hours/day, and self clean every 5 cycles it will be 20 hours before it reverses polarity to self clean, like they designed it, to prolong cell life.
lambchop

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby lambchop » Thu 17 Jun, 2010 20:39

keeps alarming code 92 ( high salt ) any solution ideas would be greatly appreciated so I can get my kids off my back!!
New2Me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2Me » Sun 20 Jun, 2010 12:38

First, are you sure that the salt level isn't too high? Test it, keep track of how much is being added, don't just add water or salt just because an alarm came in. Once in alarm, you must reset the unit (turn the power on/off) to clear the alarm so that it can re-test and resume. The Intex infers salt content by measuring the resistance/conductance between the cell plates. High salt alarm comes in when it detects low resistance/high conductance, Low salt alarm is from high resistance/low conductance. Something with low resistance touching two or more of the plates in the cell (like a hair, blade of grass, dead bug, etc..) can cause the resistance to be low and cause a high salt alarm. A coating of calcium on the plates will increase the resistance and cause a low salt alarm (time to acid clean the cell.)
Unplug the unit, and carefully inspect the cell. looking for anything that could be lodged inside, and clean it if needed. Sometimes removing the cell power cord and replacing it upside down will allow the unit to operate for awhile. Doing that will reverse the current flow inside the cell, just like when it self cleans. Plug the unit back in and see if it works.
Good Luck, and Best Wishes!
drewcifer

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby drewcifer » Wed 23 Jun, 2010 09:06

Hey , the "CODE 91" fix was said a while back regarding resistors. pull off cover carefully, both the flow sensor and cell power cables exit the case making lifting the plastic case difficult but manageable. look for three adjustable resisters, one above the other. They are marked (or mine was) VR1, VR2,and VR3 on the circuit board. they were black and about the diameter of a pencil eraser with a small Philips (+) adjustable head. The head was locked with glue? but it can be scraped off. The original suggestion said to turn the VR1 resister a quarter turn CCW. This did not work for me but I added an additional quarter turn CCW (now half a turn CCW) and it is back working as it did originally. I will keep an eye on my salt content to keep at 3000ppm as suggested in manual.

Thank god for this fix.. i was about to kick the brand new machine i bought on kijiji... she's running fine now.
and honestly took me less and 3 minutes to change.. i went inbwteen a quarter and half turn.
Its sounds like the have horrible quality control at the factory and are not calibrated accurately.
Guest

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Guest » Tue 06 Jul, 2010 07:58

Phil Longford wrote:At least I have never had the 'low salt' code. Last year, pool was immaculate. If my memory is correct, you could smell the chlorine, and see a misty colour from the pump. Also, I think when the operation was complete, the green light below the LED display came on. Now, although the codes show it is working normally, there is no green light, no smell, no mist, and the water is going green. Is the generator knackered?


I have the same problem as phil, but i have model 8220. Everuthings looks fine, but it still doesn't make chlorine. Did anybody have this problem too and how did they solve it.

thanks, brian
jlh

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jlh » Wed 07 Jul, 2010 10:21

I too have battled the infamous error 91. So in my experience, Never I repeat never add salt until you take clen the cell. Too much salt equals drain some water . It's a very easy fix. Comes apart with a screw driver. I use a CLR product to soak it then a long hack saw blade to scape out the deposits. Once clean I use compressed air to blow out the rest. I have used my system for 3 years now and with oeriodic cleanings it works great. Hope this Helped
New2me

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2me » Wed 07 Jul, 2010 12:33

Never I repeat never add salt until you take clen the cell.


Good advice! Salt does not get "used up," and is only lost with water that is not evaporated out - like a leak. When water evaporates, it leaves the salt (and any other mineral, like calcium) behind. So if you haven't "lost" a lot of water to splash-out or a leak, then your salt level is probably exactly the same as when you added the salt to start with. Get a salt test done, (better, get a salt test kit!) before adding salt/draining water.

then a long hack saw blade


I would NOT recommend that. The Ruthenium coating on the titanium blades is only a few microns thick, and you don't want to scrape any of it off, as chlorine production will be severely reduced. I know that other makers supply a "cleaning wand" which is just a pop-sickle like stick of wood. A piece of hard plastic might work too, but never put any metal in the cell.

If you have a high calcium level in your water (and don't control your ph) then the cell plates will foul with calcium deposits, which will reduce the current flow in the cell( which reduces the chlorine produced,) and lead the unit to alarm LOW SALT when the current falls below a pre-set level. The best way to clean off the calcium deposits is with a mild acid solution, ie. white vinegar, diluted Muriatic Acid, and I guess the CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) cleaner should work, too.

The VR1 resistor "fix" allows you to adjust/lower the low current level that triggers the alarm, which will keep the unit producing chlorine instead of alarming, - HOWEVER, with a reduced current flow, the chlorine production is also reduced, and may be so reduced as to be ineffective. That is why you MUST take accurate chlorine readings daily (test strips won't do it.) Keeping the cell clean by maintaining proper water balance will keep chlorine production at a high level, and cleaning the cell when you notice the level dropping will help it last longer. As the cell fouls with calcium, you will need to run it longer to get the same amount of chlorine, so it will foul even more, so you will need to run it even longer.....

A Taylor FAS-DPD chlorine test kit is considered the best by many people, as you can test up to 25ppm at 0.2 ppm resolution quickly, accurately and repeatedly using titration, which involves noting a change from a pink color to colorless, not trying to match shades of yellow or pink. An indication of Combined Chlorine at the same ppm resolution occurs if it returns to pink again as the last part of the test. A CC reading above 0.5 is an indication that something like algae is using up your chlorine, and things can quickly get out of control, unless you take action!

Pool User,
I am not familiar with your model, but I think that the green LED only comes on when the cell is powered (to show chlorine is being produced.) The 8110 goes through a start up routine that checks for a programmed run time (code 88 if not set,) water flow ( code 90,) Low/High salt codes 91/92. Code 93 means that it successfully completed a cycle and will soon hibernate (blank display) until next start time comes.

You may want to make sure that there is not a Reset button that needs to be pressed (or a tripped GFCI outlet), and that the unit indicates that it is getting power (amber LED.) I had a unit die on me, it would seem to be OK and take a program time set, but then it would start to flash all of the 7 segment LEDs and then go dead, each time it died quicker, then it wouldn't come on at all. Intex replaced it for free, as I only had it for a few weeks, I think that they have a 2 year (probably pro-rated) warranty.
Good Luck!, and Best Wishes!
LT

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby LT » Wed 07 Jul, 2010 19:57

I have #7 on my display i try to reset the system but wont let me . All i did was turn it on from sitting over the winter and this thing wont reset can anyone help me?
tammysteve

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby tammysteve » Sat 10 Jul, 2010 09:35

Pool Hacker wrote:If you have an INTEX 8110 Chlorine Generator that continuously gives you salt level codes that prevents you from continuing to chlorinate (when you have verified that the salt ppm is OK) you may be interested in a "fix." It requires a little technical aptitude, but it works great. I'll never go back to chlorine tabs or granular. I'll post the fix based upon the positive responses.


Have t5he same problem low salt even though my strips say i have too much salt Steve
pool user brian

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby pool user brian » Sat 10 Jul, 2010 12:49

new2me replied on my question, problem...thanks...

But my still problem isn't solved....

the model i have is the 8220. I quess it is the same as the 8110, but in holland we have 220 volts, and in the us 110 volts ??? thats the only different i quess, because it looks completely the same. The problem i have is that it gives no error code at all. It seems that the machine is wordking normally, time is counting down and it even displays 93 when its finished. The only problem is no chlorine and the green led won't go on. It isn't broken, i've tested it. Because nobody had an answer, even Intex had no clue, i bought a new one today. And it has the same problem, so i quess the machine is allright but there is something wrong with the pool. The salt is good, the Ph is good, there is a good flow of water, what else can be wrong. The only thing i can make up is that the salt is wrong ????? but is that possible, wrong salt ? The green light won't go on, does that mean that it makes no chlorine at all ? I've tested the power on the cells, and there was none...

who knows anything.....

thanks, Brian
doclobster

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby doclobster » Sun 25 Jul, 2010 18:22

My unit makes chlorine just fine. But I have a ground fault. If I plug it into a regular outlet it works but it will trip my GFCI even when it is the only device one it. I've changed the GFCI once to make sure it wasn't a faulty switch.

I've been running the thing manually in the evenings when the pool isn't used but I still worry about the saftey issues - although it still sounds safer than attaching a battery charger!

I would love to get this resolved. There is no moisture under the housing, no cracking of the vinyl on the power cord. It does appear to have a crack in the housing over the power supply. I was going to drill a hole through it it dry it out if wet, but the housing is very thick and I don't believe this to really be the problem. I disconnected the power supply from the rest of the unit and it still trips the GFCI.

Any suggestions?

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