Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

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Larry
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Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby Larry » Sun 01 Mar, 2009 16:47

In order to help us provide you with more accurate and quicker help for your pool water problems, we suggest that you include as much of the following information as possible in your support requests:

  • Problem: The problem and when / how it started
  • FC: free chlorine level
  • TC: total chlorine level
  • pH:
  • TA: total alkalinity level
  • CH: calcium hardness level
  • CYA: cyanuric acid level (stabilizer / conditioner)
  • My pool: type, size, surface
  • Pool chemicals: the chemicals you use for pool maintenance (chlorine, bromine, ...)
  • My pump & filter:
  • Other info: water temp, bather load, abnormal weather or environmental factors

Depending on the problem, the type and size of pool, the pool surface, the pool pump and the filter details may be required. The more details you provide, the better your chances for a quick answer (and quick fix).

You can copy this template and paste it into your support request to make your pool problem reporting easier:

Code: Select all

[b]Problem[/b]:

[b]FC[/b]:
[b]TC[/b]:
[b]pH[/b]:
[b]TA[/b]:
[b]CH[/b]:
[b]CYA[/b]:

[b]My pool[/b]:
[b]Pool chemicals[/b]:
[b]My pump & filter[/b]:
[b]Other info[/b]: 

And PLEASE use a descriptive title for your support request

Thanks
Larry


newpool1
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I'm new here
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon 04 May, 2009 14:44
My Pool: above ground roughly five and a half feet in height and a diameter of 21 ft obviously round. 10000 gallons. Sand filter.
Location: england

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby newpool1 » Mon 04 May, 2009 15:47

Hi
I am new to this site and the pool business, and was after some help on a couple of things if possible.
My testing strips have four tabs Chlorinity, Alkalinity, Stabliser and ph these work great the problem being with the results. Two are in spec but the other two being Chlorinity which is reading slightly higher than zero and Alkalinity which is the opposite being too high at 240.
Ph and Stabaliser are fine.
I have shocked the pool by the way.
ANy suggestions ???
Thanks Rich
jmf1971
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Posts: 4
Joined: Sat 06 Jun, 2009 14:07
My Pool: AG 33x18x52, 2 sp 2 HP pump, DE filter
Location: Central PA

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby jmf1971 » Sat 06 Jun, 2009 14:18

Hi this is the first year we have opened our pool - it was installed last June. Upon opening the water was clear so we were excited that we closed it the 'right' way.

FC:10
TC:
pH:7.2
TA:between 40-80
CH:
CYA:
The strips I am using only have the three levels

My pool:AG 33x18x52
Pool chemicals:3in chorine tabs and liquid shock is about all I use... I have added ph increase to keep the ph levels where they should be
My pump & filter: is a 2 sp, 2 HP with a DE filter - last year when we installed we added 6 of the blue 'cups' of DE but the guy this year told us to only add 3
Other info: When I opened it I made the mistake of adding the full bottle of shock (12%) - 1 gallon AND running the filter with the chlorine feeder full of chlorine tabs - in effect super super shocking the water. So in order to let the kids in the pool 2 weeks later - I added Chlor Neutralizer. About 4.5 lbs.

Now almost a month later I am still struggling with the Chlorine levels... when the Chlorine level tanked and a little bit of algae started to grow, I dumped about 1/3 of a gallon of shock (6%) in and the chlorine level skyrocketed again and has stayed high. Maybe for a day it has appeared to come down as low as 5 but again today it is 10. I have taken all Chlorine out of the feeder and have run the pump without any chemicals.

A note - I have a nature 2 cartridge installed on my return line as well.

HELP.
dclark218

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby dclark218 » Sun 01 Nov, 2009 12:50

Hi,
I recently bought a house with a concrete pool and spa and up until now, I've done okay. The last couple of days I have noticed that the pump won't hold it's prime. I have a Navigator and it doesn't appear to have anything trapped. I am having trouble taking the cylinder out of the filter...don't seem to have enough strength (if you have a tip for doing this, I'd appreciate it) and I haven't been able to clean the inside of the filter. Would that have anything to do with the prime issue? I was really getting concerned about it today so I turned off the pump until I can figure this out. I'd apprieciate any help you can give me :?
cobras18
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I'm new here
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed 02 Jun, 2010 17:56
My Pool: I have a swimming pools that is always dirty and turning green. I got sick of it and hired hassle free pools in peoria arizona and they maintain my pool for less than it cost me to fix it every time.
Location: peoria, az

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby cobras18 » Wed 02 Jun, 2010 18:03

I have a pool that was always dirty and turning green. I couldn't take it anymore so I just gave up and hired a pool service company in peoria arizona that is very good. Its cost less to just have them clean the pools than for me to do it myself. 10 years in business and I just wanted to share if you need help.
jean menes

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby jean menes » Sat 26 Jun, 2010 16:18

Reply with quote Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info
by Larry » Sun 01 Mar, 2009 16:47

In order to help us provide you with more accurate and quicker help for your pool water problems, we suggest that you include as much of the following information as possible in your support requests:


•Problem: The problem and when / how it started
•FC: free chlorine level
•TC: total chlorine level
•pH:
•TA: total alkalinity level
•CH: calcium hardness level
•CYA: cyanuric acid level (stabilizer / conditioner)
•My pool: type, size, surface
•Pool chemicals: the chemicals you use for pool maintenance (chlorine, bromine, ...)
•My pump & filter:
•Other info: water temp, bather load, abnormal weather or environmental factors

Depending on the problem, the type and size of pool, the pool surface, the pool pump and the filter details may be required. The more details you provide, the better your chances for a quick answer (and quick fix).

You can copy this template and paste it into your support request to make your pool problem reporting easier:


Code: Select all
Problem: Opened up our green pool. Chlorine and ph levels are fine. Water remains cloudy but blue. When vacuuming debris what filter setting is recommended? We usually have left it on filtration then backwashed. But I have read recently that it should be on waste. Please advise.


FC:
TC:
pH:
TA:
CH:
CYA:

My pool:
Pool chemicals:
My pump & filter:
Other info:
accupool727

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby accupool727 » Wed 09 Feb, 2011 00:09

dclark218 wrote:Hi,
I recently bought a house with a concrete pool and spa and up until now, I've done okay. The last couple of days I have noticed that the pump won't hold it's prime. I have a Navigator and it doesn't appear to have anything trapped. I am having trouble taking the cylinder out of the filter...don't seem to have enough strength (if you have a tip for doing this, I'd appreciate it) and I haven't been able to clean the inside of the filter. Would that have anything to do with the prime issue? I was really getting concerned about it today so I turned off the pump until I can figure this out. I'd apprieciate any help you can give me :?



Hi, i own a swimming pool business here in florida Accu-Pools. Your filter definetly needs to be either cleaned or replaced and if not cleaned regularly can cause pump to lose prime and pool wont circulate correctly. Remember your filter is very important and is what is filtering all the dirt an such from your vacuum. If it is a cartridge filter u need to pry it off some how or get some help from someone with some muscle. Remember to relieve air pressure through little air valve on top theres always one u turn an then try unscrewing to get cap off. if it doesnt come off by hand get a screw driver in pry upwards on each side till it comes off. It will come off somehow. After clean filter and if it is bad bad replace. U should get good pressure then. If not, u have some other problem but i am almost sure thats what it is. i get this all the time, so dont feel bad. lol. Hope I helped.
accupool727/www.accu-pools.com

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby accupool727/www.accu-pools.com » Mon 23 May, 2011 03:54

Hi, i am a swimming pool service and repair company hear in florida. Usually your ph an akilinity are both either ok or out of wack but if your alklinity is reading high you can go to your local pool store an get a package of alklinity decreaser or use your m. acid. Use small amounts slowly until you can get a correct reading. Pour into deep end of the pool an then brush to main drain or vacuum. Since your ph is correct if that is so, its not going to take much to get your alklinity to a level an balanced reading. Since your chlorene is low you need to put a half of a 2 1/2 gallon jug into your pool if its a 10-13,000 gallon pool it sounds like from your low reading. You may do that slowly if ud like until you get right reading as well, but a half a jug should do the trick! Hope I helped and always remember to clean that filter weekly and brush the pool to prevent algea and keep the pool circulating correctly for superior balanced water!
chem geek
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Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby chem geek » Mon 23 May, 2011 22:09

There is no such thing as Alkalinity Decreaser. It is simply acid (usually dry acid), but you can use Muriatic Acid from a hardware / big-box store. The proper procedure for lowering Total Alkalinity (TA) is described in this post. It involves a combination of acid addition and aeration at low pH.
katsky73

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby katsky73 » Wed 08 Jun, 2011 09:04

Thanks for that information. Great help.
amiodek
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I'm new here
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed 07 Mar, 2012 23:39
Location: Dhaka

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby amiodek » Thu 08 Mar, 2012 00:00

Hi,
I recently bought a house with a concrete pool and spa and up until now, I've done okay. The last couple of days I have noticed that the pump won't hold it's prime. I have a Navigator and it doesn't appear to have anything trapped. I am having trouble taking the cylinder out of the filter...don't seem to have enough strength (if you have a tip for doing this, I'd appreciate it) and I haven't been able to clean the inside of the filter. Would that have anything to do with the prime issue?
leds lighting
Jake337

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby Jake337 » Sun 27 May, 2012 11:39

Hello.

I am setting up my pool for the first time. I have all the chemicals ready to go working with a local pool store.

My question is:

My first step is adding super sequest and I am wondering how soon it will be safe to swim for adults and children.

It's going to be 95 degrees today and we would like to jump in. Should I wait to add the supper sequest tonight before bed or is it safe to start it up right away.

Pool is a 15x48 above ground pool.

Thanks
Estehanon

High CYA level

Postby Estehanon » Sat 20 Apr, 2013 16:40

Hi Larry...its nice to start learning about pool maintenance. I used to checked the water quality of our pool after we dismissed our pool maintenance as the water since 2011 was always cloudy and never sparkle. For a month now the water CYA level was 150. Due to this I went to a pool store with a water sample for test. The result were as follows: FAC 15; TAC 15; CH 250; CYA 110; TA 110; pH 7.5; TDS 900; Pho 300.

I partially drained the water about 5 days ago that is why the CYA level goes down to 110. They adviced me to repeat the partial draining so as to delute the CYA once water is added. My question: How can I maintain a good water quality after the CYA level goes down to its normal range?
chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
Pool Industry Leader
Posts: 2381
Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby chem geek » Mon 22 Apr, 2013 17:31

You want to maintain a Free Chlorine (FC) level that is at least 7.5% of the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level in a manually dosed pool. To prevent CYA from continuing to build up, you can use chlorinating liquid or bleach as your source of chlorine. You also probably need a better test kit, either the Taylor K-2006 or the TFTestKits TF-100.

If you have a sand filter, then you can consider adding some Diatomaceous Earth (DE) to it to improve filtration if your water is still not crystal-clear. These and other topics may be found in the Pool School.
jlynn149
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Joined: Mon 24 Jun, 2013 12:51
My Pool: Walk in beach front like access goes about 9 feet deep.
Location: san diego

Pool Problem Requests - IMPORTANT info

Postby jlynn149 » Mon 24 Jun, 2013 13:01

helpful info! Thanks!

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