Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
I have a 20K gallon, in-ground, salt-water-generator, gunite finish, 7 years old pool 17x33 feet.
Last Saturday, 4 days ago, I added 4 pounds of Algae Spot Kill (by BioGuard). Active chemical was Trichloro-s-triazinetrione (99.%) to kill Black Algae spors.
SWG has been off since then and pump running about 8 hrs day. We've been mostly cloudy too. And no rain.
On the good side, the algae is gone. However, when testing for Chlorine with my 5-drops OTO test kit, it returns a bright orange result.
I understand sunshine will eventually knock down the chlorine level as will draining and replacing the water.
But in the meantime, am I hurting my SWG cell and/or pump by running water thru the system this high in chlorine? Or am I damaging my pool gunite finish?
Thanks for any and all help!
Last Saturday, 4 days ago, I added 4 pounds of Algae Spot Kill (by BioGuard). Active chemical was Trichloro-s-triazinetrione (99.%) to kill Black Algae spors.
SWG has been off since then and pump running about 8 hrs day. We've been mostly cloudy too. And no rain.
On the good side, the algae is gone. However, when testing for Chlorine with my 5-drops OTO test kit, it returns a bright orange result.
I understand sunshine will eventually knock down the chlorine level as will draining and replacing the water.
But in the meantime, am I hurting my SWG cell and/or pump by running water thru the system this high in chlorine? Or am I damaging my pool gunite finish?
Thanks for any and all help!
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- Pool Industry Leader
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- Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
- Location: San Rafael, California
4 pounds of Trichlor in 20,000 gallons will raise the FC by 22 ppm and will also add 13 ppm Cyanuric Acid (CYA) to the water. Assuming you had some CYA to begin with, you won't be damaging any equipment with this high chlorine level. It's around the level one would do for shock, again dependent on the CYA level.
The FC will drop over time -- especially if there is any sunlight.
More importantly, you should get a good test kit, such as the Taylor K-2006, and see what your CYA level is. You should not be getting algae if you maintain a minimum FC level of 7.5% of the CYA level (a target FC of 11.5% of the CYA level is better).
Richard
The FC will drop over time -- especially if there is any sunlight.
More importantly, you should get a good test kit, such as the Taylor K-2006, and see what your CYA level is. You should not be getting algae if you maintain a minimum FC level of 7.5% of the CYA level (a target FC of 11.5% of the CYA level is better).
Richard
Richard - chem geek:
Thanks for the reply, info and suggestion.
I did get the water tested today at the store. Amazingly it showed 2.9 ppm Free Chlorine and 1.2 ppm Total Chlorine (for a Combined Chlorine of -1.7).
However, prior to going to the store I tested it at home with the 5-drop test kit. And it was that super-dark yellow, almost orange again.
As such, I am ASSUMING the store's reading are correct (or reasonably close) and my test kit drops are simply reacting to the active ingredient in the 4 pounds of Spot Kill algae killer. Is that a reasonable assumption or am I totally off track?
I know nothing about "Total Chlorine" ranges so I've got to check into that. Store clerk said it was nothing to worry about.
Re the Cyanuric Acid, it tested at 37 ppm. The low end of the range (30 to 150 ppm), but still in specs.
I was low on the Alkalinity at 57 ppm (range being 80 - 150 ppm). So I've added 5 pounds of Sodium Bicarbonate. Store clerk says that will not be enough, however, I'm just going slow as no body is swimming any longer. We're just golfing and enjoying the occassional adult beverages this time of year.
PH came in a 7.6 and Hardness at 187 ppm, both in range. Salt was high (my fault) at 4,000 ppm. Drained off and put in about 600 gallons.
I'll check on that Taylor K-2006 kit as well. Mine owes me nothing after all these years.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the reply, info and suggestion.
I did get the water tested today at the store. Amazingly it showed 2.9 ppm Free Chlorine and 1.2 ppm Total Chlorine (for a Combined Chlorine of -1.7).
However, prior to going to the store I tested it at home with the 5-drop test kit. And it was that super-dark yellow, almost orange again.
As such, I am ASSUMING the store's reading are correct (or reasonably close) and my test kit drops are simply reacting to the active ingredient in the 4 pounds of Spot Kill algae killer. Is that a reasonable assumption or am I totally off track?
I know nothing about "Total Chlorine" ranges so I've got to check into that. Store clerk said it was nothing to worry about.
Re the Cyanuric Acid, it tested at 37 ppm. The low end of the range (30 to 150 ppm), but still in specs.
I was low on the Alkalinity at 57 ppm (range being 80 - 150 ppm). So I've added 5 pounds of Sodium Bicarbonate. Store clerk says that will not be enough, however, I'm just going slow as no body is swimming any longer. We're just golfing and enjoying the occassional adult beverages this time of year.
PH came in a 7.6 and Hardness at 187 ppm, both in range. Salt was high (my fault) at 4,000 ppm. Drained off and put in about 600 gallons.
I'll check on that Taylor K-2006 kit as well. Mine owes me nothing after all these years.
Thanks again!
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- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 2381
- Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
- Location: San Rafael, California
If the algaecide was BioGuard Spot Kill, then this is just Trichlor in powder form, so essentially the same as Trichlor pucks/tabs that just dissolves faster. It adds to both chlorine and CYA.
I don't know why you get such seemingly different results than your pool store, but getting the K-2006 test kit should help as it is accurate and can measure up to 50 ppm chlorine (both FC and CC).
I don't know why you get such seemingly different results than your pool store, but getting the K-2006 test kit should help as it is accurate and can measure up to 50 ppm chlorine (both FC and CC).
Good morning from Georgia.
Just as a follow-up, I had the water retested (yesterday, Thursday). FC and TC readings from them essential the same (2.6 and 1.8 ppm respectively) as the day before.
Cleaned out the filter cartridge and cell last night as the sun finally appeared. I had not done so since adding the Triclor powder.
I am, however, still getting the very dark yellow from the chlorine test drops here with my home test kit. You did not comment on my "assumption" that perhaps that was happening as a reaction to that 4 pounds of Triclor from last Saturday. Could that be the cause or am I off track?
I did check out that K-2006 test kit. Wow, so much better than mine. They offered a 3/4 oz and 2 oz reagent size bottle. Do you think this business of replacing your reagents yearly is actually necessary or is it simply a marketing scheme?
In my case, the test kit and 1 oz reagent bottles sit up on the porch, in shade, year round. And truthfully, I don't replace them until they are empty.
Thanks in advance for the info and assist.
Just as a follow-up, I had the water retested (yesterday, Thursday). FC and TC readings from them essential the same (2.6 and 1.8 ppm respectively) as the day before.
Cleaned out the filter cartridge and cell last night as the sun finally appeared. I had not done so since adding the Triclor powder.
I am, however, still getting the very dark yellow from the chlorine test drops here with my home test kit. You did not comment on my "assumption" that perhaps that was happening as a reaction to that 4 pounds of Triclor from last Saturday. Could that be the cause or am I off track?
I did check out that K-2006 test kit. Wow, so much better than mine. They offered a 3/4 oz and 2 oz reagent size bottle. Do you think this business of replacing your reagents yearly is actually necessary or is it simply a marketing scheme?
In my case, the test kit and 1 oz reagent bottles sit up on the porch, in shade, year round. And truthfully, I don't replace them until they are empty.
Thanks in advance for the info and assist.
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- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 2381
- Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
- Location: San Rafael, California
Yes, the 4 pounds of Trichlor adding 22 ppm FC would make a Free Chlorine test register > 5 ppm so would be very dark (yellow/orange for OTO test; DPD test would bleach out). So yes, that was the cause. The chlorine level will continue to drop over time -- especially if the water is exposed to the UV rays of sunlight.
The part about replacing reagents is valid, but every year is overkill for most of the reagents. Some will last a very long time -- the acid and base demand reagents are like that. Next are the indicator dyes. The ones that last the least are the FAS/DPD titration drops since they are sensitive to light -- that is, the R-0871. If you want a good bargain and a better combination of reagent sizes, most of which provide 36% more volume so more tests than the K-2006, then check out the TF100 here. It will also test the CYA level down to 20 ppm. The pH test is different than the K-2006 -- it shows a wider range with less granularity (it shows 6.8, 7.2, 7.5, 7.8, 8.2 vs. the K-2006 that shows 7.0, 7.2, 7.4, 7.6, 7.8, 8.0). I started with the K-2006, but now have a TF100. The TF100 uses Taylor reagents so it's really just a more intelligently packaged Taylor K-2006 with more logical sizes for the reagents. I show the contents of the TF100 in this thread.
You can prevent getting algae in the future by maintaining an absolute minimum Free Chorine (FC) level that is at least 7.5% of the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level. A better target is an FC level that is 11.5% of the CYA level (roughly 10% of the CYA level is fine). So it's important to not only use stabilized chlorine (Trichlor or Dichlor) and instead to use unstabilized chlorine (unscented bleach or chlorinating liquid or Cal-Hypo) though with Cal-Hypo you need to watch the Calcium Hardness (CH) levels.
For every 1 ppm FC added by Trichlor, it also adds 0.6 ppm to CYA. For every 1 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also adds 0.9 ppm to CYA. For every 1 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also adds 0.7 ppm to CH. The problem is that whereas the FC will drop over time (i.e. get used up), the CYA and CH will not as these only decline via splash-out or dilution (CYA can slowly degrade in other ways, usually over a winter when a pool is "let go" without chlorine).
Richard
The part about replacing reagents is valid, but every year is overkill for most of the reagents. Some will last a very long time -- the acid and base demand reagents are like that. Next are the indicator dyes. The ones that last the least are the FAS/DPD titration drops since they are sensitive to light -- that is, the R-0871. If you want a good bargain and a better combination of reagent sizes, most of which provide 36% more volume so more tests than the K-2006, then check out the TF100 here. It will also test the CYA level down to 20 ppm. The pH test is different than the K-2006 -- it shows a wider range with less granularity (it shows 6.8, 7.2, 7.5, 7.8, 8.2 vs. the K-2006 that shows 7.0, 7.2, 7.4, 7.6, 7.8, 8.0). I started with the K-2006, but now have a TF100. The TF100 uses Taylor reagents so it's really just a more intelligently packaged Taylor K-2006 with more logical sizes for the reagents. I show the contents of the TF100 in this thread.
You can prevent getting algae in the future by maintaining an absolute minimum Free Chorine (FC) level that is at least 7.5% of the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level. A better target is an FC level that is 11.5% of the CYA level (roughly 10% of the CYA level is fine). So it's important to not only use stabilized chlorine (Trichlor or Dichlor) and instead to use unstabilized chlorine (unscented bleach or chlorinating liquid or Cal-Hypo) though with Cal-Hypo you need to watch the Calcium Hardness (CH) levels.
For every 1 ppm FC added by Trichlor, it also adds 0.6 ppm to CYA. For every 1 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also adds 0.9 ppm to CYA. For every 1 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also adds 0.7 ppm to CH. The problem is that whereas the FC will drop over time (i.e. get used up), the CYA and CH will not as these only decline via splash-out or dilution (CYA can slowly degrade in other ways, usually over a winter when a pool is "let go" without chlorine).
Richard
Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
Thanks for the information and suggestions. I've learned a lot.
I'm going to go with the TF100 kit you recommended.
For any readers following this thread with a similar condition, this is now the eighth day since adding that 4 pounds of Trichlor.
I just tested the chlorine with my 5-drop kit. The really dark yellow - almost orange color is gone. It test still is dark, but improving. We've had 3 days of sun which I'm sure has helped. I would say 2 to 3 more days and I should be back in the normal range.
Again thanks, and best regards from Georgia.
I'm going to go with the TF100 kit you recommended.
For any readers following this thread with a similar condition, this is now the eighth day since adding that 4 pounds of Trichlor.
I just tested the chlorine with my 5-drop kit. The really dark yellow - almost orange color is gone. It test still is dark, but improving. We've had 3 days of sun which I'm sure has helped. I would say 2 to 3 more days and I should be back in the normal range.
Again thanks, and best regards from Georgia.
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- Pool Industry Leader
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- Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
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georgia wrote:Just as a follow-up, I had the water retested (yesterday, Thursday). FC and TC readings from them essential the same (2.6 and 1.8 ppm respectively) as the day before.
I can't explain why others are measuring far lower chlorine readings than your OTO test (the one that is yellow/orange) is showing. Unless your sample wasn't in a sealed container or was exposed to sunlight, I don't know why they didn't measure high chlorine levels.
Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
Is this dangerous to your health
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Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
Is what dangerous to your health? A bright orange in an OTO chlorine test? It means the Free Chlorine (FC) level is very high. As to whether this is dangerous, that depends on the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level. Odds are that there is CYA in the pool if it is an outdoor pool and then the high FC level won't be nearly as bad. In fact, the active chlorine level may not be any more than found in indoor pools with no CYA. I wouldn't drink the water, but being in it won't hurt you -- but one should just wait until the FC drops to at least below 10 ppm.
Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
Have the same problem. Pool store man says don't worry about it. Been that way for two weeks. I have stopped using the 3" clorine tabs and will discontinue shocking once a week until this situation clears up. I have a 10K pool and I dont use liquid chlorine just one shock packet once a week and two 3" tablets.
Chuck
Chuck
Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
How much is your ph and cya?
Do not add any chlorine yet!
Do not add any chlorine yet!
Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
I too have chlorine readings off the scale! over 5ppm! This is true with three new different tert kits (oto and ph drop test). I too have confirmed via test strips and my local pool store that the chlorine level is correct. I have my pool in perfect balance (18,000 gal. vinyl liner). So....why are the test kits not accurate? I have shocked my pool when opened as directed by my pool store with bioguard, 6 pounds. Thanks! Who am I ? Google "adobekid1"
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Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
The test kits are probably right, at least for order-of-magnitude of you having high chlorine levels. I don't know which BioGuard product you used for shocking, but if it was BioGuard® Smart Shock®, then that is about 63% Dichlor (anhydrous so equivalent to 73% Dichlor dihydrate -- normal Dichlor product is 99% Dichlor dihydrate) PLUS some copper as well as clarifier, flocculant, etc. Anyway, 6 pounds of this product in 18,000 gallons would probably raise the FC by 16 ppm and also increase CYA by 15 ppm. So there is no mystery here, but I suggest you read the Pool School and get yourself a proper test kit if you want to properly manage your pool. Following pool store advice will likely cost you a lot more.
Anyway, that chlorine level will not damage your vinyl because you also added CYA to the water, via the Dichlor. CYA significantly moderates chlorine's strength. It would, however, be a problem if you dumped it in one place and had it settle to the bottom of the pool. When adding most concentrated chemicals, you should add them slowly over a return flow with the pump running, preferably in the deep end, and then lightly brush the side and bottom of the pool where you've added the chemical to ensure thorough mixing.
Anyway, that chlorine level will not damage your vinyl because you also added CYA to the water, via the Dichlor. CYA significantly moderates chlorine's strength. It would, however, be a problem if you dumped it in one place and had it settle to the bottom of the pool. When adding most concentrated chemicals, you should add them slowly over a return flow with the pump running, preferably in the deep end, and then lightly brush the side and bottom of the pool where you've added the chemical to ensure thorough mixing.
Bright Orange Chlorine Test Results - Damaging?
Hello,
I picked this thread out of the ether!! I have a similar problem here in Spain with regards to my outdoor pool water OTO test results showing Dark Orange. Weather over the last couple of months has been very, very cold with faint, insignificant sunshine.
Because I thought it necessary, on return from holiday (2 mths), I added chlorine cryatal to pool, without first checking reading!!! Since return I have not been able to sort out thes Orange Test problem. Have tried by adding copious amounts of PH + powder..............as you can tell I know nothing about this chemical balancing of the pool.Be grateful for any advice guidance you can give.
Thank you for your time..................David Castle
I picked this thread out of the ether!! I have a similar problem here in Spain with regards to my outdoor pool water OTO test results showing Dark Orange. Weather over the last couple of months has been very, very cold with faint, insignificant sunshine.
Because I thought it necessary, on return from holiday (2 mths), I added chlorine cryatal to pool, without first checking reading!!! Since return I have not been able to sort out thes Orange Test problem. Have tried by adding copious amounts of PH + powder..............as you can tell I know nothing about this chemical balancing of the pool.Be grateful for any advice guidance you can give.
Thank you for your time..................David Castle
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