Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

SWGs, chlorinators/ chlorine generators, ozone generators, uv systems, . . .

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby New2me » Wed 07 Jul, 2010 12:33

Never I repeat never add salt until you take clen the cell.


Good advice! Salt does not get "used up," and is only lost with water that is not evaporated out - like a leak. When water evaporates, it leaves the salt (and any other mineral, like calcium) behind. So if you haven't "lost" a lot of water to splash-out or a leak, then your salt level is probably exactly the same as when you added the salt to start with. Get a salt test done, (better, get a salt test kit!) before adding salt/draining water.

then a long hack saw blade


I would NOT recommend that. The Ruthenium coating on the titanium blades is only a few microns thick, and you don't want to scrape any of it off, as chlorine production will be severely reduced. I know that other makers supply a "cleaning wand" which is just a pop-sickle like stick of wood. A piece of hard plastic might work too, but never put any metal in the cell.

If you have a high calcium level in your water (and don't control your ph) then the cell plates will foul with calcium deposits, which will reduce the current flow in the cell( which reduces the chlorine produced,) and lead the unit to alarm LOW SALT when the current falls below a pre-set level. The best way to clean off the calcium deposits is with a mild acid solution, ie. white vinegar, diluted Muriatic Acid, and I guess the CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) cleaner should work, too.

The VR1 resistor "fix" allows you to adjust/lower the low current level that triggers the alarm, which will keep the unit producing chlorine instead of alarming, - HOWEVER, with a reduced current flow, the chlorine production is also reduced, and may be so reduced as to be ineffective. That is why you MUST take accurate chlorine readings daily (test strips won't do it.) Keeping the cell clean by maintaining proper water balance will keep chlorine production at a high level, and cleaning the cell when you notice the level dropping will help it last longer. As the cell fouls with calcium, you will need to run it longer to get the same amount of chlorine, so it will foul even more, so you will need to run it even longer.....

A Taylor FAS-DPD chlorine test kit is considered the best by many people, as you can test up to 25ppm at 0.2 ppm resolution quickly, accurately and repeatedly using titration, which involves noting a change from a pink color to colorless, not trying to match shades of yellow or pink. An indication of Combined Chlorine at the same ppm resolution occurs if it returns to pink again as the last part of the test. A CC reading above 0.5 is an indication that something like algae is using up your chlorine, and things can quickly get out of control, unless you take action!

Pool User,
I am not familiar with your model, but I think that the green LED only comes on when the cell is powered (to show chlorine is being produced.) The 8110 goes through a start up routine that checks for a programmed run time (code 88 if not set,) water flow ( code 90,) Low/High salt codes 91/92. Code 93 means that it successfully completed a cycle and will soon hibernate (blank display) until next start time comes.

You may want to make sure that there is not a Reset button that needs to be pressed (or a tripped GFCI outlet), and that the unit indicates that it is getting power (amber LED.) I had a unit die on me, it would seem to be OK and take a program time set, but then it would start to flash all of the 7 segment LEDs and then go dead, each time it died quicker, then it wouldn't come on at all. Intex replaced it for free, as I only had it for a few weeks, I think that they have a 2 year (probably pro-rated) warranty.
Good Luck!, and Best Wishes!
New2me
 

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby LT » Wed 07 Jul, 2010 19:57

I have #7 on my display i try to reset the system but wont let me . All i did was turn it on from sitting over the winter and this thing wont reset can anyone help me?
LT
 

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby tammysteve » Sat 10 Jul, 2010 09:35

Pool Hacker wrote:If you have an INTEX 8110 Chlorine Generator that continuously gives you salt level codes that prevents you from continuing to chlorinate (when you have verified that the salt ppm is OK) you may be interested in a "fix." It requires a little technical aptitude, but it works great. I'll never go back to chlorine tabs or granular. I'll post the fix based upon the positive responses.


Have t5he same problem low salt even though my strips say i have too much salt Steve
tammysteve
 

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby pool user brian » Sat 10 Jul, 2010 12:49

new2me replied on my question, problem...thanks...

But my still problem isn't solved....

the model i have is the 8220. I quess it is the same as the 8110, but in holland we have 220 volts, and in the us 110 volts ??? thats the only different i quess, because it looks completely the same. The problem i have is that it gives no error code at all. It seems that the machine is wordking normally, time is counting down and it even displays 93 when its finished. The only problem is no chlorine and the green led won't go on. It isn't broken, i've tested it. Because nobody had an answer, even Intex had no clue, i bought a new one today. And it has the same problem, so i quess the machine is allright but there is something wrong with the pool. The salt is good, the Ph is good, there is a good flow of water, what else can be wrong. The only thing i can make up is that the salt is wrong ????? but is that possible, wrong salt ? The green light won't go on, does that mean that it makes no chlorine at all ? I've tested the power on the cells, and there was none...

who knows anything.....

thanks, Brian
pool user brian
 

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby doclobster » Sun 25 Jul, 2010 18:22

My unit makes chlorine just fine. But I have a ground fault. If I plug it into a regular outlet it works but it will trip my GFCI even when it is the only device one it. I've changed the GFCI once to make sure it wasn't a faulty switch.

I've been running the thing manually in the evenings when the pool isn't used but I still worry about the saftey issues - although it still sounds safer than attaching a battery charger!

I would love to get this resolved. There is no moisture under the housing, no cracking of the vinyl on the power cord. It does appear to have a crack in the housing over the power supply. I was going to drill a hole through it it dry it out if wet, but the housing is very thick and I don't believe this to really be the problem. I disconnected the power supply from the rest of the unit and it still trips the GFCI.

Any suggestions?
doclobster
 

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby dadibaby » Fri 04 Mar, 2011 19:12

After reading all posts and all simple seeming fixes and all complicated fixes. I have a fix that has worked on two machines. Soak in every crook and cranny for 3 hours with glacial acidic acid (white)vinegar, rinse clean with hot water, reassemble machine, reverse the salt generator plug polarity,(turn the plug over). Fire it up! Has worked on two dead machines w/ the dreaded code 91. Worked now for weeks!!!
dadibaby
 

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jandafields » Sun 27 Mar, 2011 22:05

My 8110 quit working this year. I had the control board partially bypassed, and either the fan quit working or I never had it running. The bridge rectifier overheated and went bad I think.

I am getting 18VAC from the transformer, and 24VDC to the cell cord when it is unplugged from the cell.

When the cell cord is plugged into the cell, I get 18VAC from the transformer but only 2VDC to the cell.

It appears that the transformer is fine, as it still gives 18VAC, but it appears that the rectifier fails under load... it probably overheated too much.

I've got a new rectifier coming from DigiKey for $3.00 plus shipping.

Does anyone know what the DC amps going to the cell should be? I measured just over 5 amps with a 24VDC power supply connected directly to the cell, but I never tested the unit new.
jandafields
Pool Newbie
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Joined: August 2009
My Pool: Intex 24' x 52"
Intex 8110 SWG

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby 8110 temperature » Tue 03 May, 2011 12:07

I think i may have a good explanation to the 91 or 92 codes. The 8110 measures the salt concentration through the conductivity of the salted water. And obviously, the conductivity of salted water - as any other solution or solid - is linked to the temperature of the solution or the material. As a result, the same salted water will feature a lower conductivity at 15C than at 25C. For reference, a salted water is twice more conductive at 37C than at 5C!

I have not seen anything about this from Intex or in any other place. your thoughts?
8110 temperature
 

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Kwood1 » Sat 14 May, 2011 13:04

Pool Hacker wrote:If you have an INTEX 8110 Chlorine Generator that continuously gives you salt level codes that prevents you from continuing to chlorinate (when you have verified that the salt ppm is OK) you may be interested in a "fix." It requires a little technical aptitude, but it works great. I'll never go back to chlorine tabs or granular. I'll post the fix based upon the positive responses.


Ok... What is the fix? I seem to be cleaning the cell more than necessary and get this codes every few days. Please help...Thanks!
Kwood1
 

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby NormBarrie » Wed 18 May, 2011 10:51

Has anyone had any experience with the Intex Krystal Clear system with filter pump model 54611E? Is it any better than the 8100?
NormBarrie
 

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