edjones72 wrote:To Kenwwod: imagine the screw contacts were numbered 1-4 starting at the bottom, You would move wire 4 to 3 and move wire 1 to 2. You will end up with two wires attached to contact 2 and 3. This bypasses the circuit board and allows the DC current to flow straight to the cell ALL THE TIME WHEN THE UNIT IS PLUGGED IN SO don't leave it on too long without waterflow. The unit will still come on and the LED will still lite up but there is no reason to turn the switch on. From my testing, the transformer is energized all the time when the unit is plugged in just out of the box so this is not a big change. ..... To understand the concept behind the 8110, you can make chlorine with a 9V battery, 2 old spoons, 2 pieces of wire, a drinking glass, and some salt water. It's pretty cool! Let me know if you have any more questions. Make sure it's unplugged before rewiring. It's DC but it can still hurt you.
My 13mo old 8110 unit worked normally for a only couple days this season then started shutting off just seconds after the green LED came on. Must unplug it to reset. All salt and flow level alarms still function normally but it just won't stay running. Salt level is ideal and the water is crystal clear.
I hooked a 12V battery charger up to the cell for a couple days but the unit was only putting out 1-1.5 ppm chlorine.
I then tried edjones72 quoted suggestion. PROBLEM: Bypassing the circuit board leaves the bridge rectifier (which briefly...makes AC into DC...and heat) passively cooled. NOT GOOD without real heatsink. Mine quickly got very hot even without the cover on.
As a test, I've hooked a 80mm 1700rpm 12V computer case fan directly into the DC terminals (these take over-volting pretty well) and set it under the loosened rectifier bracket. As of right now, it seems likely one could use the cooling fan that comes with the unit similarly. For Long term use I'd add a small resister to the fan so it won't burn out prematurely.
Today my units transformer is drawing 1.3A at 118V= 153 watts. Not too much as it's rated for 2.5A. I might add a 120V 2-2.5A inline fuse/breaker also, just in case.
I'll work on this more during the coming week and see how I can incorporate the flow sensor and such. Good luck!