no chlorine

Chlorinating, maintaining the right chlorine levels, chlorine problems. Dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo, bleach, granules, chlorine pucks or sticks.

chlorine not reading

Postby no.name please » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 21:32

If your PH is too high - the chlorine might not be showing up on your tester. Hope this helps
no.name please
 

low FC

Postby spike » Sun 01 Jul, 2007 20:46

CYA has dropped to 60-70 from 85. PH 7.2
Using liquid chlorine only. Presently shock daily at 20ppm for the past 4 days. Will continue work down the stabilizer. Reading FC 0-.5 ppm and TC 1.5-2.0 ppm as measured in the morning.
What level should you shock at 60-70 stabilizer level?
What level of chlorine should you add daily?
How does total or corrected alkalinity affect the ability to maintain a FC level?

The pool water is cyrstal clear.
Frustrated
spike
 

Postby chem geek » Sun 01 Jul, 2007 21:14

Shock level for green algae is about 40% of the CYA level (for yellow/mustard algae it's 60% of the CYA level). However, make sure your DPD chlorine test isn't getting bleached out by diluting your pool water with tap water (or filtered or distilled water). I am surprised you've still got high chlorine demand even overnight with crystal clear water.
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no free chlorine

Postby spike » Mon 02 Jul, 2007 14:14

The sample is dipped directly from the pool so I do not expect any diluting of the sample. I've have shocked at 30% not 48% on a CYA of 80.
spike
 

Postby chem geek » Mon 02 Jul, 2007 14:53

I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear. I meant that if your chlorine level is above 10 ppm, then the DPD chlorine test (the one where you add 5 drops and it turns red and you measure the intensity of red) can bleach out from the high chlorine levels making you think you have no chlorine when you actually do. The dilution I was referring to would be intentional where you mix, say, one part of pool water with three parts of distilled or filtered water and then do the DPD test and multiply the result by 4.
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lots of money to fix it

Postby udontknowhodou » Wed 01 Aug, 2007 22:49

My problem was the same, only to find out that i had the musterd problem, a fine powder like form of alg. LOOK IT UP! It made me drain, raised a phosphate level up and down trying to fight it. SHOCK< SHOCK< SHOCK. the problem is when you get it you have to hit it hard. try using yellow out or yellow treat. then flock it twice and vacum to waste. Follow the directions for yellow out and hit it hard with shock and make sure you raise your ph to 8.4 befor doing the process of yellow out. I would even hit it a third time with in 2 monthes. keep flocing and vacum to waste each time! always check ph and chlorine levels. When you vacum to waste, and readd tap water, the ph goes down. The ph, low or no phosphates, and chlorine are very important factors in killing the mess in a musterd infested pool. hope it helps.
udontknowhodou
 

Postby car0407 » Wed 22 Aug, 2007 23:25

this is my 2nd year that i haven't had a chlorine reading in my 21ft round above ground pool. my water is also crstal clear. whats the big deal if i don't get a reading? the water is clear. why not just go on with no chlorine reading?
car0407
 

Chlorine level

Postby xbombero » Mon 19 Nov, 2007 17:24

When you start your test if there is a flash of color and then it goes clear the cl2 level is too high for the test kit.

Don
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Re: lots of money to fix it

Postby BlindSite » Wed 21 Nov, 2007 03:33

udontknowhodou wrote:My problem was the same, only to find out that i had the musterd problem, a fine powder like form of alg. LOOK IT UP! It made me drain, raised a phosphate level up and down trying to fight it. SHOCK< SHOCK< SHOCK. the problem is when you get it you have to hit it hard. try using yellow out or yellow treat. then flock it twice and vacum to waste. Follow the directions for yellow out and hit it hard with shock and make sure you raise your ph to 8.4 befor doing the process of yellow out. I would even hit it a third time with in 2 monthes. keep flocing and vacum to waste each time! always check ph and chlorine levels. When you vacum to waste, and readd tap water, the ph goes down. The ph, low or no phosphates, and chlorine are very important factors in killing the mess in a musterd infested pool. hope it helps.


You're better off throwing everything you use in the pool into the water and throwing in a copper algaecide with good benzochronium after lowering the pH to about 7.0ppm.
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chlorine

Postby lehighguy » Tue 13 May, 2008 15:07

You also should be looking at you alklinity level. If you have no alklinlity level your pool water is eating through your chlorine to get alkinlinity. I had to put 50 lbs of alkilinity increase last year and my pool leveled itself out and I was back to my once a month chemical checks!!
lehighguy
 

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